The Calgary Herald • January 24, 2006

By JOANNE SASVARI, CALGARY HERALD

Ah, January, season of dry, flaky, chapped, itchy, achy skin. This is not a pretty time in Calgary. It’s so dry our nostrils bleed, our faces develop red blotches and our heels crack.

“We evaporate so fast in Calgary. It’s like the snow. It never melts, it evaporates,” says dermatologist Dr. Gregory Storwick. “You have to moisturize your skin in this climate.” Most of us will seek salve and salvation in a jar of skin cream.

But are we likely to find it? Yes and no.

“For the most part, there is no value to any of the creams you will buy over the counter,” Storwick says, adding, “It’s a general rule that the more you spend on a moisturizer, the less it’s going to do for you.”

On the other hand, Dr. Wendy Smeltzer, owner and founder of the Institut de Sante spa, believes cosmetic creams do have value. “It doesn’t matter the brand of cleanser or moisturizer you’re using,” Smeltzer says. “But you have to get one that is correct for your skin type, suits your pocketbook and appeals to you. It’s not that one brand is better than any other brand.”

There are thousands of products on the market promising soft, smooth, beautiful skin. But what do they really offer: protection, treatment or simply hope in a jar?

Humans and moisturizers have a lengthy history. Since as long ago as 10,000 BC, our ancestors softened their skin with castor oil, bear fat, asses’ milk and crushed snails.

The first commercially marketed product was a cold cream of beeswax, olive oil and rose water, invented by the Greek physician Galen in 200 BC. By the 20th century, the industry was in full swing, led by manufacturers such as Pond’s and beauty queens such as Helena Rubenstein.

In recent years, the industry has exploded. As the baby boomers have hit middle age, they’ve noticed the toll taken on their skin by decades of sun worship and other bad habits. They will pay almost anything to turn back the clock — or look as if they did. But what are they paying for, exactly? To understand how moisturizers work, it helps to understand a little about the structure of the skin.

Skin has two layers: the epidermis is the protective outer layer; the dermis is the thick underlying layer of living tissue that contains 80 per cent of the skin’s moisture.

The reason skin gets dry, Smeltzer explains, is “the water works its way to the surface and evaporates.” That process speeds up in winter when air is made even drier by forced air furnaces. We also strip natural oils from our skin when we bathe or shower, and when we use soap. Our skin is further damaged by exposure to sun and wind, poor eating habits, smoke, stress, sleep deprivation and pollutants.

All that damage doesn’t just look bad, it can create ideal conditions for infection and disease. No wonder we look for hope wherever we can find it.

To replenish our skin, we turn to moisturizers, which come in two types: humectant and occlusive.

Humectants are ingredients (such as glycerin) that absorb water and retain it in your skin. They are usually recommended for oily skin and are only moderately effective at moisturizing the skin.

Occlusives are ingredients (such as oils) that create a barrier and seal in the moisture that exists in your skin. They are usually recommended for dry skin and can be highly effective.

Moisturizers are not magic. They are cosmetic products that can help make your skin feel nice, but they don’t change the skin. To achieve real change and reduce redness, sun spots, fine lines and other signs of aging, you need doctor-prescribed treatments. That means acid peels, laser therapy, dermabrasion or surgery as well as prescription skin-care products that can contain one of three proven ingredients:

• Retinol, which is derived from vitamin A and increases collagen;
• Vitamin C, which increases collagen and activity in the skin;
• Glycolic, alphahydroxy, betahydroxy and other fruit acids, which remove dead skin cells and stimulate skin regeneration.

“It’s not magic in a bottle, but they do make a big difference,” says Smeltzer, who was recently named to the list of Canada’s Top 100 Most Powerful Women.

Last year, Smeltzer acquired the Medique skin care line, which is sold through physicians. Many of her products contain retinol or hydroxy acids, and she has been developing other items such as a “just-to-be-launched skin protective serum.” She recognizes the importance of not only treating serious skin conditions, but also creating products that feel, smell and look nice. After all, she says, if something isn’t pleasant to use, you just won’t use it.

In between the cosmetic and the medical products are the so-called cosmeceuticals. Like prescription products, they might contain retinol, vitamin C or hydroxy acids, but in small enough doses that they can be sold over the counter. Others contain ingredients that sound like they should work, but likely don’t, such as collagen, a protein whose molecules are too big to penetrate the skin’s surface. Still others are so new that the scientific research on them isn’t in yet. Many contain peptides, which can stimulate collagen production, and antioxidants, which can reduce free radical damage. “There are many, many, many new things out there, and some of them have some good early research,” Smeltzer says. “There’s good theories out there and a lot of evolution.” In many cases, though, we don’t know what’s in those pricey little jars because cosmetics are not subject to the same scrutiny as drugs.

However, changes to the federal Food and Drugs Act’s cosmetic regulations state that by Nov. 16, personal care products must list all ingredients on the label. That means we’ll know exactly what we’re putting on our faces and bodies. What we won’t know is whether it will work or not.

Moisturizers are only part of skin care. Even more important is protecting our skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays, not just to prevent signs of aging, but to prevent skin cancer. “It’s not just about sunscreen,” Smeltzer says. “It’s about reapplying it. It’s avoiding that really intense midday sun. It’s wearing a hat, protective clothing, that sort of thing.”

Another often neglected part of skin care is exfoliation. Your skin regenerates throughout the day, shedding layers of dead skin cells. That debris accumulates on the skin’s surface, making it so brittle it can crack and open the way to infection and disease. Gentle scrubs can remove that debris.

You still need a proper basic skincare program, which simply means using the right cleanser and moisturizer. But with so many products available, how do you choose what’s right for you? Smeltzer suggests consulting a facialist or dermatologist, who can advise you on what products to use.

“Your skin reflects you. Stress, poor nutrition, dehydration, it all reflects in the skin,” Smeltzer says. “It’s an organ and it needs to be treated with care. “You’ve just got to find the products that work for you.”

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